The heating element works to good for my 7 gallon conical fermenter. My conical has a temperature probe insert that puts the PENN temperature control probe at the top of the heating element inside the conical so temperature variation created by the heating element is detected by the Penn temperature probe quickly. I set the thermostat to turn on and then to turn off at one degree separation to limit the time the heating element is on. The result is the residual heat from the heating element after it is turned off raises the temperature of the liquid 6 degrees so there is a large temperature swing at every cycle. Possible solutions would be 800 watts and an inch shorter because when installed the heating element is 1/16" from the opposite side.

If you're trying to electrify your brewery this is about as easy as it gets. Paired with an inkbird temp controller it lets me maintain a steady mash temp. Haven't had the slightest issue with leaks. Don't expect it to bring your wort to a rolling boil — I can usually only bring my wort (about 7 gallons) to a weak simmer. Paired with another heating element on a separate circuit it's a cheap and easy way to brew on 120 volts.

If you're trying to electrify your brewery, this is about as easy as it gets. Paired with an inkbird temp controller, it lets me maintain a steady mash temp. Haven't had the slightest issue with leaks. Don't expect it to bring your wort to a rolling boil — I can usually only bring my wort (about 7 gallons) to a weak simmer. Paired with another heating element on a separate circuit, it's a cheap and easy way to brew on 120 volts.

Great addition to my brewery

Great addition to my brewery

Does what it’s su to do. Paired it with an ink bird temperature controller so I can variate the heat.

Does what it’s su to do. Paired it with an ink bird temperature controller , so I can variate the heat.

I purchased 2 elements to quickly get my water to strike temps and quickly get my wert to boil. So far they work great and are more efficient than my old propane burner. 25 min to my strike temp and 25 min to get my wert to a boil.

I purchased 2 elements to quickly get my water to strike temps and quickly get my wert to boil. So far they work great and are more efficient than my old propane burner. 25 min to my strike temp, and 25 min to get my wert to a boil.

I had hoped to use it along with an inkbird to heat my sparge water in my 5 gallon round cooler but this unit is too long for the diameter of my cooler. I may go for a larger cooler and try it but at 1600 watts I would need it on another circuit than my kettle so it may just sit in a drawer until I have another use. the quality seems good though.

I had hoped to use it along with an inkbird to heat my sparge water in my 5 gallon round cooler but this unit is too long for the diameter of my cooler. I may go for a larger cooler and try it but at 1600 watts I would need it on another circuit than my kettle so it may just sit in a drawer until I have another use. the quality seems good though.

I recently converted my brew kettle to electric using this heating element and it's made my brew day so much easier! I'm sure there are faster methods for heating up strike water and wort but that also usually comes with a hefty price tag. With my electric controller this element was able to heat my strike water at just over two degrees per minute and got my wort to boiling in around 30 minutes. Compared with what I was having to do before it easily took two ours off my brew day! Cheers!

I recently converted my brew kettle to electric using this heating element and it's made my brew day so much easier! I'm sure there are faster methods for heating up strike water and wort, but that also usually comes with a hefty price tag. With my electric controller this element was able to heat my strike water at just over two degrees per minute and got my wort to boiling in around 30 minutes. Compared with what I was having to do before, it easily took two ours off my brew day! Cheers!