Going from a stovetop where I could do 2.5 gallon batches to the Brewzilla has been a night and day difference. A speed run for an extract brew on the stovetop was a little over 4 hours. I was feeling pretty good about that time. Now; on the Brewzilla, I go from filling the water to pitching my yeast generally under 2 hours and 30 minutes! Add 30 minutes to an hour for all grain depending on your lauter / sparging practices. Truth be told; I have a counterflow chiller that cools the wort from boiling to about 60 degrees as fast as I can pump it through, but still... 10 gallons in less time than it took me to do 2.5 gallons? That's pretty amazing. I don't have many gripes. The RAPT software / program is kind of clunky, but works once you play around with it a bit. In my experience, the false bottom filters out probably 80 ish percent of hop matter for an average beer; less if I do a whirlpool. In fact, I avoid whirlpools in the Gen4 these days for just that reason. Also; I don't bother with a hop bag or spider, I just dump the pellets straight in.The cord is kind of short, but it's hardwired in this size so I can see why. Still, it's long enough for my immediate needs and I have extension cords if I need more range. Overall I'm exceptionally pleased with this system and can't believe I didn't get one sooner!

Going from a stovetop where I could do 2.5 gallon batches to the Brewzilla has been a night and day difference. A speed run for an extract brew on the stovetop was a little over 4 hours. I was feeling pretty good about that time. Now; on the Brewzilla I go from filling the water to pitching my yeast generally under 2 hours and 30 minutes! Add 30 minutes to an hour for all grain depending on your lauter / sparging practices. Truth be told; I have a counterflow chiller that cools the wort from boiling to about 60 degrees as fast as I can pump it through but still... 10 gallons in less time than it took me to do 2.5 gallons? That's pretty amazing. I don't have many gripes. The RAPT software / program is kind of clunky but works once you play around with it a bit. In my experience the false bottom filters out probably 80 ish percent of hop matter for an average beer; less if I do a whirlpool. In fact I avoid whirlpools in the Gen4 these days for just that reason. Also; I don't bother with a hop bag or spider I just dump the pellets straight in. The cord is kind of short but it's hardwired in this size so I can see why. Still it's long enough for my immediate needs and I have extension cords if I need more range. Overall I'm exceptionally pleased with this system and can't believe I didn't get one sooner!

Got the Brewzilla 65L to get back into brewing after a few years hiatus. The kettle was delivered with a 1 stage malt pipe, advertised as a 2 stage. Contacted MoreBeer about this and within a few days, no questions asked they sent me a new, 2 stage malt pipe. So far I've ran the kettle to a boil with water, got familiar with the display and functions. Seems like a solid piece of equipment. Looking forward to first brew.

65L 10 gal batch Cooked 8 batches so far Bit of a learning curve. The software takes a bit of getting used to. You cannot (AFAIK) set up heating power percentages remote while setting up a profile. You can certainly set temps and time though. While the profile is running (mash or cooking) you need to manually set heat power percentages on the screen. Not a big deal but it would be nice to have it so as to avoid a boil-over. A boil-over is a mess I'll tell ya that. Lots of nooks & crannies at the top for gunk to get stuck in. During mash or cook I keep an eye on it through the remote RAPT portal. I also have a security camera looking at the top to catch a potential boil-over. The good part is I can work inside at my home office and monitor the cook remotely on screens. It really is a lot easier with this versus the standard pot on a fire method. The mash is easy set the heat and pump percentages to 40% and drop the hose on top of the screen. Cook is also easy I have a profile set to hold at mash temp for 60 minutes then another hold until I press a button to go to the cook phase. Same thing after the cook I tell it to drop down and hold at 170 until I add hops for whirlpool and then press a button insert whirlpool arm and hit the button to continue for 45 min whirlpool. Here is where the big CON is the whirlpool is super weak pump is horrible only gets it going enough to see it turning barely. You must remove the chiller coil but it barely increases the swirl. This to me is NOT a whirlpool. There is a well known Aussie that shows you how to hook up a better pump in an online video on a well known site. But darn it should have come with a pump that can whirlpool!!! Temp seems to be off too My boil setting is 218 F and 85% heat power. Something else I would like to see is the ability to run the RAPT screen on the cooker with 120 volt so you can upload profiles and run an overnight pause. I built a 10X12 beer shed only for brewing and use generator power. It'd be nice to have it use 120v for those reasons and not have to have the generator running (I don't do the overnight pause because of this). Overall I wouldn't buy this 65L until they upgrade the pump to something that can make a usable whirlpool. But if you do buy it you have a good unit. Be sure to get the neoprene sleeve it holds the temps better. Give your unit a good look over I had a half dollar sized dent right in the front where it is very visible.

65L 10 gal batchCooked 8 batches so farBit of a learning curve. The software takes a bit of getting used to. You cannot (AFAIK) set up heating power percentages remote while setting up a profile. You can certainly set temps and time though. While the profile is running (mash or cooking), you need to manually set heat power percentages on the screen. Not a big deal, but it would be nice to have it so as to avoid a boil-over. A boil-over is a mess, I'll tell ya that. Lots of nooks & crannies at the top for gunk to get stuck in. During mash or cook, I keep an eye on it through the remote RAPT portal. I also have a security camera looking at the top to catch a potential boil-over.The good part is I can work inside at my home office and monitor the cook remotely on screens. It really is a lot easier with this, versus the standard pot on a fire method.The mash is easy, set the heat and pump percentages to 40% and drop the hose on top of the screen.Cook is also easy, I have a profile set to hold at mash temp for 60 minutes, then another hold until I press a button to go to the cook phase.Same thing after the cook, I tell it to drop down and hold at 170 until I add hops for whirlpool and then press a button, insert whirlpool arm, and hit the button to continue for 45 min whirlpool.Here is where the big CON is, the whirlpool is super weak, pump is horrible, only gets it going enough to see it turning, barely. You must remove the chiller coil but it barely increases the swirl. This to me is NOT a whirlpool. There is a well known Aussie that shows you how to hook up a better pump in an online video on a well known site. But darn, it should have come with a pump that can whirlpool!!!Temp seems to be off too, My boil setting is 218 F and 85% heat power.Something else I would like to see is the ability to run the RAPT screen on the cooker with 120 volt so you can upload profiles and run an overnight pause. I built a 10X12 beer shed only for brewing and use generator power. It'd be nice to have it use 120v for those reasons and not have to have the generator running (I don't do the overnight pause because of this).Overall, I wouldn't buy this 65L until they upgrade the pump to something that can make a usable whirlpool. But if you do buy it, you have a good unit. Be sure to get the neoprene sleeve, it holds the temps better.Give your unit a good look over, I had a half dollar sized dent right in the front where it is very visible.

My son and I have brewed for 10+ years and made dozens of batches. It was a chore and messy. This Brewzilla has lived up to its reputation. It does a great job and is easy to use and clean. We are now makine 10 gallon batches. The beer comes out great

My son and I have brewed for 10+ years and made dozens of batches. It was a chore and messy. This Brewzilla has lived up to its reputation. It does a great job and is easy to use and clean.We are now makine 10 gallon batches. The beer comes out great

I've been brewing on propane for 10 years and finally pulled the trigger on an electric brewing system. My first brew was a simple 5 gallon pale ale and it went smoothly. Still learning some of the Bluetooth programs but seems to be a very good system for the price. Looking forward to making many great beers with this system!

I waited 5 months to get it and it was worth the wait! It’s like having an extra brewer with you..(except they’re not drinking the beer!) it’s a must buy if you want to eliminate most of the little mistakes we make during a mash day..

I've been brewing on propane for 10 years and finally pulled the trigger on an electric brewing system. My first brew was a simple 5 gallon pale ale and it went smoothly. Still learning some of the Bluetooth programs but seems to be a very good system for the price. Looking forward to making many great beers with this system!

I waited 5 months to get it, and it was worth the wait! It’s like having an extra brewer with you..(except they’re not drinking the beer!) it’s a must buy if you want to eliminate most of the little mistakes we make during a mash day..

Finally got my first brew in yesterday. Great system! Very easy to use. Brew day went well and will go even smoother after getting used to the new system.

Finally got my first brew in yesterday. Great system! Very easy to use. Brew day went well and will go even smoother after getting used to the new system.

I had been running a 35l Robobrew 3.0 for years without issue and this is a nice upgrade. It heats FAST. I was up to strike temp before I was finished filling it up. From mash to boil took about 20 minutes and was rolling. I cut back to 75% for boil. Mash in was easy being so big but dialing in the pump was problematic. Cut the flow too much and it was stop pumping intermittently open it up to clear it and grain flow through couldn't keep up. I used to internal pump to move the wort to a conical fermenter without issue in a 5 foot line. Cons: Bottom screen was improperly made (confirmed via Kegland) and doesn't fit right/won't come out. No replacement available in the US. Pump is underpowered for it's size. Again Kegland has an upgraded pump but not yet available in the US. Side perforations in malt pipe are good in theory but the lower feet place those holes above the unit and if wort flow is fast or moved with a paddle when sparging wort sprays out the side and onto who/what is nearby. The lower feet should be moved above the perforations. Finally the lower ball valve is cheap and it's mounting location is flimsy. I am looking into some kind of weldless bulkhead to replace it with something better. TIP: Purchase the distillation lid buy a 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead for the center hole and drill a small vent hole in the lid and you can set up a really nice CIP system using a submersible pump or really good brew pump capable of at least 7/GPM. I had it looking spotless in 15 minutes without touching anything.

I had been running a 35l Robobrew 3.0 for years without issue and this is a nice upgrade. It heats FAST. I was up to strike temp before I was finished filling it up. From mash to boil took about 20 minutes and was rolling. I cut back to 75% for boil. Mash in was easy being so big but dialing in the pump was problematic. Cut the flow too much and it was stop pumping intermittently, open it up to clear it and grain flow through couldn't keep up. I used to internal pump to move the wort to a conical fermenter without issue in a 5 foot line.Cons: Bottom screen was improperly made (confirmed via Kegland) and doesn't fit right/won't come out. No replacement available in the US.Pump is underpowered for it's size. Again Kegland has an upgraded pump, but not yet available in the US.Side perforations in malt pipe are good in theory but the lower feet place those holes above the unit and if wort flow is fast or moved with a paddle when sparging, wort sprays out the side and onto who/what is nearby. The lower feet should be moved above the perforations.Finally the lower ball valve is cheap and it's mounting location is flimsy. I am looking into some kind of weldless bulkhead to replace it with something better.TIP: Purchase the distillation lid, buy a 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead for the center hole and drill a small vent hole in the lid and you can set up a really nice CIP system using a submersible pump or really good brew pump capable of at least 7/GPM. I had it looking spotless in 15 minutes without touching anything.