Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x 1/4 in. BSP
Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x 1/4 in. BSP
SKU: DUO103
$3.29
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M
I added some premium Teflon plumbers tape to the threads as I didn't trust just the O-ring by itself. No leaks.
M
Bought 2 sets of these for a couple of keezers and they immediately improved our setups! No more issues with hose clamps...
S
I have been wanting to replace my CO2 line for EVABarrier + Duotight for some time but I was stumped how to connect to my cheap no-name CO2 regulator. After spending quite a bit of time looking into it I felt this was my best option and to my surprise it worked great. I unscrewed the barb on the output of the cut-off valve and screwed this in after cleaning and sanitizing it. I did not use teflon tape on the threads mainly because I did not think about it but I did put some keg lube on the o-ring and I was able to tighten until the o-ring made good contact. I tested the connection by both using a foaming agent on the joints and by pressurizing the line turning off the CO2 tank and checking the pressure in the line over night. Neither test indicated a leak so I think the o-ring seems to be sufficient to keep the CO2 in.
S
I have been wanting to replace my CO2 line for EVABarrier + Duotight for some time but I was stumped how to connect to my cheap no-name CO2 regulator. After spending quite a bit of time looking into it I felt this was my best option and to my surprise it worked great. I unscrewed the barb on the output of the cut-off valve and screwed this in after cleaning and sanitizing it. I did not use teflon tape on the threads mainly because I did not think about it but I did put some keg lube on the o-ring and I was able to tighten until the o-ring made good contact. I tested the connection by both using a foaming agent on the joints and by pressurizing the line turning off the CO2 tank and checking the pressure in the line over night. Neither test indicated a leak so I think the o-ring seems to be sufficient to keep the CO2 in.
S
I have been wanting to replace my CO2 line for EVABarrier + Duotight for some time but I was stumped how to connect to my cheap, no-name CO2 regulator. After spending quite a bit of time looking into it, I felt this was my best option and to my surprise, it worked great. I unscrewed the barb on the output of the cut-off valve and screwed this in after cleaning and sanitizing it. I did not use teflon tape on the threads, mainly because I did not think about it, but I did put some keg lube on the o-ring and I was able to tighten until the o-ring made good contact. I tested the connection by both using a foaming agent on the joints and by pressurizing the line, turning off the CO2 tank and checking the pressure in the line over night. Neither test indicated a leak so I think the o-ring seems to be sufficient to keep the CO2 in.
M
I added some premium Teflon plumbers tape to the threads as I didn't trust just the O-ring by itself. No leaks.
M
I added some premium Teflon plumbers tape to the threads as I didn't trust just the O-ring by itself. No leaks.
M
I added some premium Teflon plumbers tape to the threads, as I didn't trust just the O-ring by itself. No leaks.
A
I had an existing system that had a 6 port manifold with regular barb and tubing. I removed all of the barbs and swapped them for these fittings and easily converted my entire system to use Duotight. So glad I did. You don't need to fuss with teflon tape clamps etc. Just twist on tighten with a wrench and you're good to go.
A
I had an existing system that had a 6 port manifold with regular barb and tubing. I removed all of the barbs and swapped them for these fittings and easily converted my entire system to use Duotight. So glad I did. You don't need to fuss with teflon tape clamps etc. Just twist on tighten with a wrench and you're good to go.
A
I had an existing system that had a 6 port manifold with regular barb and tubing. I removed all of the barbs and swapped them for these fittings and easily converted my entire system to use Duotight. So glad I did. You don't need to fuss with teflon tape, clamps, etc. Just twist on, tighten with a wrench, and you're good to go.
N
These make gas or liquid connections a breeze
N
These make gas or liquid connections a breeze
N
These make gas or liquid connections a breeze
M
Little more finicky than the other duotight fittings I used. Also could not get to fit on one of my secondary regulators input due to the rim on the bolt and the angle of the input making a seal impossible. Worked on my primary output well.
M
Little more finicky than the other duotight fittings I used. Also could not get to fit on one of my secondary regulators input due to the rim on the bolt and the angle of the input making a seal impossible. Worked on my primary output well.
M
Little more finicky than the other duotight fittings I used. Also, could not get to fit on one of my secondary regulators input due to the rim on the bolt and the angle of the input making a seal impossible. Worked on my primary output well.
M
Bought 2 sets of these for a couple of keezers and they immediately improved our setups! No more issues with hose clamps...
M
Bought 2 sets of these for a couple of keezers and they immediately improved our setups! No more issues with hose clamps...
M
Bought 2 sets of these for a couple of keezers, and they immediately improved our setups! No more issues with hose clamps...
K
I use tandem short thermowells in my brew buckets. great with any length 7mm SS immersion wells. Standard bucket with 2 wells (1 for external monitoring 1 for controller) heating pad and cooling source=commercial level control in a basement cave.
K
I use tandem short thermowells in my brew buckets. great with any length 7mm SS immersion wells. Standard bucket with 2 wells (1 for external monitoring 1 for controller) heating pad and cooling source=commercial level control in a basement cave.
K
I use tandem short thermowells in my brew buckets. great with any length 7mm SS immersion wells. Standard bucket with 2 wells, (1 for external monitoring, 1 for controller), heating pad, and cooling source=commercial level control in a basement cave.
A
Does this include the nut?
No it's the fitting only
That piece is designed to screw into the regulator. Just wrap it with plumbers tape two or three times and thread into the regulator. Be careful not to over tighten.
There is no "nut". It simply screws into a 1/4-in female NPT fitting like most CO2 distribution manifolds used inside keezers.
A
I want to install a thermowell with 5/16 OD (8 mm - see picture) to my fermzilla fermenter. Is this the right bulkhead for it?
No. I thought the same. The Thermowell will not pass through this DuoTight fitting. Kegland makes replacements but more beer does not sell them... why??
I tried this and it didn't work. The thermowell is just slightly to big to go through that bulkhead. I git the 23.6 inch thermowell with bulkhead for fermzilla.
This is what I used to install the thermowell in my kegmenter. I did make a slight grove in the thermowell with tubing cutters to keep it from pushing out under pressurized fermentations. It worked fine for me.
Might work as but its not a true Bulkhead fitting which would have the backing plate and seal with nut.....Instead I'd Go here Canuck home brew supply as they have bulkheads and more... Hope this helps with your project. David
The duotight fitting is not a bulkhead. It’s intended to be used with EVA Barrier tuning for liquid or gas lines. You could look at MT385 “ Plastic Bulkhead for Temperature Probe”. That might meet your needs
A
Instead of trying to mate this BSP fitting to a NPT fitting shouldn't we just get the H853 which is actually NPT? Then a regular DUO106 should screw right on the male flare from the H853? I'm suspicious of trying to use a BSP male in an NPT female.
That’s my same question.
That makes sense to me. But I gave up on Duotight. Tubing too stiff. Leaks at fittings if you put any side force since you're depending on o-rings for a seal. Barb fittings with clamps or flare fittings are more reliable in my experience. Dan